Autumn Winter’19 is about personal expression, celebration, consciousness, functionality and originality. Textiles and Styles are the two most important ways to interpret these key words for the season. Here I cover key fabric direction across categories for the season.
Taking a stand for hybridization and addition as important values, fashion is highly forward-looking and permeable, it showcases novel and incongruous blends with a charming call for freedom. Silhouettes are composed disproportionately, playing on explosive layering’s and assemblies, as much in materials as in decoration. Color, an essential asset, is elaborated with dash and daring, fancy yarns are megalomaniac, and pattern scales are extrapolated. Accessories and components accompany the clashing harmonies of the silhouettes.
Blurriness runs off with color, greedily blending it. Multi-strand thrown yarns, twisted then dyed in multi-colors, create optical shot looks in shirting’s and knits. Colorful vibrations go all in on subtlety in thick, warm woolens and low-key suiting’s. Buried gems and disturbed volumes, deeply hued minerals dotting surfaces like an earthly crust, mica glitter and stardust. Checks take to the side roads, veering away from tradition. Their color-ways and moving patterns adapt to the season’s demands: hazy, brushed, torn, ultra-fluid or definitively blurred by a plethora of fancy yarns, by delicate engravings in accessories, or by embossing and printings in leathers.
Weaves inspired by work-wear fabrics, predominantly cotton or wool herringbone, rigorous diagonals in silkies or knits, inflated with air to handle shocks, or carved into leather, furrowed by lasers, or deeply embossed. Basket weaves and caning(s) with hardy visuals and ultra-supple behaviors. Patterns with slightly skewed geometry, not quite squares, not quite diamonds, and not quite zigzag.
A subtle retro feel is created, working for men’s T-shirts, tops and polo shirts in pure cotton, wool and synthetic blends. Lively optical effects create a sense of movement across hounds tooth, diamond, chevrons and striped jacquard’s to reinvigorate classic menswear motifs. I must mention here the importance of Knits as driving fabric for Menswear in the contemporary fashion. It has quietly been used across Shirting, Trousers, Jackets and Outerwear by leading luxury brands. Knit not only provides comfort and drape but also it is chic and sophisticated.
Print direction is driven by ethnic and wild flower imagery. They give a feel of celebration of the festive spirit and of sustainability drive that many a brand stands for in these crucial times. Paisley that, iconic pattern continues to drive the Print direction for Menswear especially the occasion wear.
All these nuances – the mineral hues of the prints, the graceful warmth of the merino, the neutrals finely sprinkled with pigmented brights – make for an autumn winter 19-20 season infused with subtlety, as well as cheerfulness and nonchalance.
Remember the key words again – personal expression, fantasy, consciousness, originality and joyfulness – these feelings should be conveyed through Textile and Style.